Carrier Oils 101: Choosing the Right Base Oil for Soap, Skincare & Massage Blends
Carrier oils, also known as base or vegetable oils, are the behind-the-scenes partners in crime that makes the base and bulk of most skincare and aromatherapy formulations. Just like essential oils, each carrier oil has its own uses and benefits. The more informed you are as a formulator, the better you will be able to serve your customers needs and desires.
While you may be tempted to compare oils based on price per litre, it is also important to understand their properties and how to source the oils reliably in bulk quantities.
Nobody wants to end up with a pore-clogging facial serum or a greasy massage blend, so let’s dive in and discover the scientific and practical uses of your favourite carrier oils.
What are carrier oils?
Carrier oils are fatty oils extracted from the seeds or pulp of plants that grow all over the world. Sunflower seeds, olives, coconuts, and avocados are some of the most commonly known sources of carrier oils, but there are hundreds of different plants known to have oil-bearing seeds. The oil is extracted using either a mechanical cold press method or via solvent (typically CO2) extraction. Afterwards, the oil undergoes a physical filtration and may be further refined (chemically or physically) to reduce the scent and/or colour.
Key Factors When Choosing a Carrier Oil
1. Absorption rate: fast-absorbing vs. rich/heavy/slow absorbing into skin
2. Comedogenic rating for skincare formulation:
- Oils with a rating of 0 and 1 will not clog pores; numbers 2 and 3 may clog pores in sensitive or acne prone skin; oils with numbers 4 and 5 are likely to clog pores.
- Products for oily and sensitive skin should focus on lighter oils with a lower comedogenic rating, whereas dry skin can benefit from heavier oils such as avocado.
- Using pore-clogging oils in small concentrations in rinse off products behaves differently than in leave-on products
3. Oxidative stability / shelf life
Oils with a high percentage of linoleic and linolenic acid are more prone to oxidation (have a shorter shelf life). To prolong shelf-life, blend with more stable oils like Jojoba or Meadowfoam oil or add an antioxidant such as Vitamin E.
4. Scent profile
Refined oils have a very low odour profile compared with cold pressed virgin oils. Some cold pressed carrier oils such as argan, black cumin seed, and hemp oil can be described as nutty. Others such as buriti fruit have a more earthy aroma.
5. Cost per litre at bulk volumes
If you make rinse -off products such as soaps, the price of oils may weigh more heavily on your purchasing decision than if you make customized skincare, for example. The least expensive oils used in soaps are Sunflower oil and Palm oil. We do not carry Palm oil due to sustainability issues. Others can be combined in various quantities depending on the nature and desired result of your end-product.
Use the table below to help make informed decisions about your next carrier oil purchase.
Carrier Oil Comparison Table
|
Carrier Oil |
Absorption |
Comedogenic rating |
Feels |
Oxidative stability |
Best For |
|
Fast |
0 |
Ultra-light non-greasy after-feel |
Very stable |
Skin Care, Hair Care, Make-Up, and Sun Care. |
|
|
Medium |
2 |
light non-greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Massage, body oils,Hair care |
|
|
Fast |
2 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Cleanser for skin and hair could be used in children,s cosmetics |
|
|
Medium |
0 |
non-greasy after-feel |
unstable |
Premium skincare, hair, Regenerative for mature skincare |
|
|
Slow |
2 |
greasy |
Unstable |
For skincare of mature ,Dry, flaky skin and hair |
|
|
Medium |
0 to 1 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Skin care for sensitive ,irritated skin. Helps Eczema release |
|
|
Fast |
0 or 1 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
For skincare of mature ,Dry, flaky skin and hair. Prevention of atopic dermatitis |
|
|
Medium |
2 to 3 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Stable |
For after sun skincare of mature, dry skin. Use in blends with lighter coloured oils. |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Skincare for mature skin |
|
|
Slow |
1 |
Heavy greasy |
Stable |
For Dry skin and hair, anti dandruff |
|
|
Slow |
4 or 5 |
Heavy greasy |
Stable |
For Dry skin and hair. Prevents the loss of hair proteins in damaged and undamaged hair. |
|
|
Medium |
2 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Massage, Skincare for Mature skin |
|
|
Fast |
1 to 3 |
Non Greasy |
Stable |
Massage blends, non-staining, soaps, skin care products |
|
|
Medium |
2 |
Light, non-greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Skincare products for oily, allergy and acne prone skin. |
|
|
Medium |
0 |
non-greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Skincare for dry, mature , irritated and stressed skin. |
|
|
Fast |
2 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Lightweight facial oils for acne prone skin |
|
|
Fast (wax ester) |
2 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Very stable |
Facial serums, all skin types, |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
Non greasy after-feel |
stable |
Facial serums for dry, flaking skin , balms and salve |
|
|
Fast |
0-1 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
For skin and hair care and colour cosmetic products |
|
|
Slow |
0-1 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Skincare for sensitive, irritated, itchy or inflamed skin. Scalp nourishment products |
|
|
Slow |
2 |
Greasy |
Refined is stable |
For hair and skin care, soaps, massage . |
|
|
Medium |
1 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Skincare to regenerate injured skin by repair of the dermis. |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Skincare for sensitive, inflamed and mature skin |
|
|
Fast |
2 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Products for hair repair and stimulation of growth, In skincare for mature skin. |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Skincare for very dry,irritated, inflamed and stressed skin |
|
|
Medium |
2 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Skincare for very dry,irritated, mature and stressed skin. After sun exposure. |
|
|
Medium |
2 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Skincare for mature , dry and problematic skin |
|
|
Fast |
1 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Skincare for acne prone skin. Use in small quantities because of its dark red colouring. |
|
|
Fast |
1 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
Skincare for irritated and inflamed skin. |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Unstable |
For soaps, Cleansing skincare and hair products |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Cleansing skincare and hair products |
|
|
Fast |
0 |
Non greasy after-feel |
Stable |
Serums, and regenerating skincare products |
|
|
Slow |
4 |
Heavy greasy |
Unstable |
Skincare for dry hair and mature skin, scalp with dandruff. |
